Fiordland covers 12,500 square kilometres of the south-western South Island and is the largest national park in New Zealand. It is also one of the wettest inhabited places on earth: Milford Sound records around seven metres of rain a year, spread over roughly 180 days. Rain is not a problem here — it is the show. Within minutes of a downpour, hundreds of temporary waterfalls appear on the cliff faces.
Milford Sound
Strictly a fiord rather than a sound, Milford was carved by glaciers and is 16 km long with walls rising more than 1200 m. Mitre Peak, 1692 m, climbs almost vertically from the water and is one of the highest sea cliffs in the world. Two waterfalls run permanently: Stirling Falls at 151 m and Lady Bowen Falls at 162 m, which supplies the settlement with power and water.
Cruises
Boat trips of 90 minutes to two hours leave from the terminal throughout the day. Fur seals lie on Seal Rock year round, bottlenose dolphins are common, and Fiordland crested penguins come ashore between July and November. The middle of the day is busiest; the first departure and the last are noticeably quieter. Overnight cruises with kayaking are available and are worth the extra cost.
The Milford Road
The 119 km from Te Anau is a destination in itself and takes two to three hours with stops. Highlights include the Mirror Lakes, the Chasm where the Cleddau River has drilled through rock, and the Homer Tunnel, a 1.2 km unlined bore driven through the mountain and completed in 1954. Kea, the alpine parrot, gather at the tunnel entrance and will strip rubber from a car in minutes. The road can close for avalanche control in winter; chains may be legally required from May to November.
Doubtful Sound
Three times longer and ten times larger than Milford, Doubtful is reached only by a boat across Lake Manapouri followed by a bus over Wilmot Pass. The journey takes half a day each way, which keeps the numbers down. It is quieter, wilder and darker than Milford, with a resident pod of bottlenose dolphins.
Walking
The Milford Track, 53.5 km over four days from Lake Te Anau to Sands Fly Point, is the most famous of the Great Walks and must be booked months ahead for the October to April season; huts are strictly allocated and walking is one-way. The Routeburn and Kepler tracks nearby are equally spectacular and slightly easier to book.
Practicalities
Te Anau is the natural base with the widest range of accommodation. There is no fuel between Te Anau and Milford, and mobile coverage disappears for most of the drive. Sandflies are relentless at the water edge — repellent is not optional. From 2024 the park has introduced parking charges and restrictions at Milford; check current rules before setting out.